Pacific Coast Tour: Day 11

Day 11: Stafford, CA to Standish-Hickey State Park, Leggett, CA

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 65 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 924 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 4,100 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 35,300 feet

The sound of a rooster crowing made for a unique alarm clock as the sun came up. I peeked outside my bivy to the pleasant sight of some blue skies and large redwood trees surrounding the campground. I ended up sleeping behind one of the tiny cabins to keep my battery backup plugged in to charge and within reach. It was a better night too as the low temperature did not seem to be as low as many previous nights. The cabins really were tiny. They couldn’t have been more than 8 x 8 feet with a small covered front porch. Just enough shelter to make a cozy home for a night.

Breakfast consisted of a PROBAR meal which is a tasty bar consisting of seeds, nuts, and fruits. After a little food I took some extra time on this morning to further adjust the saddle of my bike. As I was not so subtly reminded, only a few millimeters of change in the saddle position can have significant repercussions on the rest of the body after many miles of cycling. In my case the saddle height had slipped down slightly at some point and also moving it slightly backward in the fore/aft plane was needed. After moving it only a couple millimeters aft and upward I could immediately notice the difference and was embarrassed I hadn’t make the change earlier.

After packing everything up it was time to start pedaling along one of the most anticipated stretches of road among the entire trip. Only about 1.5 miles along Highway 101 passed until reaching the entrance to Avenue of the Giants. This extraordinarily scenic stretch of road is about 31 miles of old Highway 101 prior the construction of the current bypass. It meanders through over 50,000 acres of redwood groves with the oldest more than 950 years old and the tallest about 370 feet tall! It was a truly beautiful day with far less smoke and fog than the previous day. Immediately upon starting down the road there were large fields of sunflowers in the most scenic setting. Shortly thereafter the vast groves of redwoods appeared in all their glory. The views did not disappoint as the well maintained road gently curved through the forest with trees close enough to the road to reach out and touch at times. Breathing in the distinctly fresh forest air and enjoying the wonderful views there was a grin permanently affixed to my face this day.

Before long I came upon what appeared to be a local café. It happened to be right by the “Eternal Tree house” which is a tree house built into the stump of a previously felled tree. The café here turned out to be a perfect choice as they served massive pancakes and delicious breakfast sandwiches. They even accidentally made an extra pancake which I did not let go to waste. Then the gorgeous ride continued with little traffic overall and a peaceful feeling. A few stops were made to gaze upward in awe, snap a few photos, and shed layers as the temperatures increased. Along the road there are numerous places to stop and hike along with some other attractions such as the Shrine Drive Thru Tree. In what seemed like only a few minutes the south entrance of the Avenue of the Giants appeared and the route returned to the main Highway 101 with about 30 something miles to go before my goal destination for the day. The entire day was a gradual uphill climb of about 4,100 feet overall. Luckily, my knee wasn’t any worse and actually felt okay at times.

Along the way I made two stops – one at a gas station for a sports drink and the second in the town of Garberville to pick up one and a half foot long sandwiches at Subway for dinner. It was always a good idea to plan ahead for food just in case there wasn’t anything available near the campground at night. The challenge was fitting one and a half Subway sandwiches in an already crammed full backpack. Fortunately, somehow it always seemed to fit. After continuing onward the remaining stretch of the 101 curved nearly continuously following along the south fork of the Eel River. Oftentimes, there were spectacular views of the river far below the road. With about 10 miles to go before the campground I saw people swimming in the river and waving at me. It looked ever so tempting to stop, climb down, and join them as this day had really warmed up in the summer sun.

Only a few more miles uphill and I had reached the Standish-Hickey State Recreation area and campground. It was a really great campground as I was pleasantly greeted by the park ranger and claimed an open picnic table at the hiker/biker area. This hiker/biker campsite was especially accommodating as there was a covered shelter area, place to hang wet clothes to dry, phone charging station, and nearby showers/bathrooms. There were also plenty of mosquitoes, but as someone who grew up in Iowa with copious mosquitoes in the summer I could avoid too many bites by staying covered and continually moving. This stop was really great as I had a chance to do a little laundry in a sink near the bathrooms and hang up everything to dry in the low humidity air.

At this campsite I also found Neal, a fellow cyclist, whom I met two nights previously. He too was heading south, and his final destination was San Francisco. He had discovered a great swimming area in the park a short walk down from the campground in the river I had been following along the 101 the second part of the day. He happened to be a bike mechanic and graciously took a look at my bike as well as another fellow cyclist’s bike for any mechanical issues. I was pleased to see that he didn’t find anything wrong with my bike of which I wasn’t already aware. We all shared stories and information with each other about upcoming plans and routes.

Later, we eventually made our way out of the campground and across Highway 101 to visit a general store which was a great surprise. This store was fully stocked with all sorts of food, snacks, and a lot of unique souvenirs. I selected an ice cold root beer, chocolate milk, green tea, and Clif bars in preparation for the next day which involved the biggest climb of the entire Pacific Coast route. Sipping on that root beer couldn’t have been more refreshing reflecting on such a truly wonderful day following such a trying day just one day before. This trend seemed to be an ongoing theme for the trip – one difficult aspect or obstacle would always be surpassed by an experience doubly gratifying.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 10

Day 10: Elk Prairie Redwood State Park, Orick, CA to Stafford, CA

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 88 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 859 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 3,500 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 31,200 feet

As far as comfort goes, the first night with the lightweight sleeping pad did not disappoint. However, it was another cold night which caused me to awake shivering multiple times. Soon enough I would be further south with warmer nights or so I convinced myself at the time. Once the sun arose and much time was spent gathering my things and refilling water containers I then spent some more time conversing with the larger group of cyclists about their daily plans. They planned to traverse about 40 miles this day which was about average for them. I also met a kind young man who actually shared a small portion of my large campsite. He too was sleeping in a bivy on the ground, although he had a sleeping bag in addition. His journey took him from his home in San Diego northward mostly by bus until he recently purchased a bicycle as he found it made his planning much more flexible. He described his trip as “self therapy” after what sounded to be a bad car accident earlier in the year.

By the time everything was packed and goodbyes to fellow travelers were said it was nearly 10 am. The day began slowly and continued at the same steady pace all day in attempt to reduce further aggravation to my knee. At my first stop for coffee about 10 miles into the ride two of the Swiss men happened to stop as well. The one with extensive experience with long tours in the past had dealt with similar knee pain. He reminded me to stretch fully each day and also suggested readjusting my saddle position. Both were very good points that I knew but had neglected to do until that point in time. After spending an extra five minutes stretching and changing the saddle height I was back on the road.

The conditions for the day were a combination of fog and smoky haze. It was astounding to see the widespread impact of the large forest fires. This day I followed a combination of the routes suggested by the Adventure Cycling Association maps and Google maps which led to taking some very rough roads early on. Had it been a clear day the rough roads would have been rewarded by incredible views. On this hazy day the views were significantly limited. The vast majority of the first section of the day was rural riding through continued stretches of redwood forests before returning toward the coast after the tiny town of Trinidad. The next stop of the day was in Arcata, California about 43 miles into the ride.

The previous day I began to hear a loud noise from my rear wheel at times while coasting during descents. The sound immediately disappeared upon resuming pedaling. The same symptoms continued on this day. So I looked up the nearest bike shop and found Revolution Bicycles in Arcata. The staff there was outstanding as they quickly confirmed that it was likely the freehub on my bike making the awful sound. For a low price they quickly took a look at my bike, disassembled, cleaned, and re-oiled the freehub. They even let me charge up my phone, looked up the part number of a new freehub if one would be needed for replacement in the future along the ride, and recommended a good place to eat nearby!

After eating an omelette and pancakes at the recommended restaurant it was nearly 3 pm, and there were still many miles to go before reaching my goal for the day. The goal was to get as close to Avenue of the Giants as possible so I could really enjoy it and take my time riding through the next day as I had been looking forward to that stretch of riding since the trip started.

It was past time to get back on the road. Leaving Arcata there is a nice route to take in order to get off the busier Highway 101 for a while. The lower traffic route is taking Highway 255 west around Arcata Bay then crossing a bridge to Indian Island then another bridge directly into Eureka. Riding through Eureka seemed like riding through any small city with a decent amount of city traffic. I made a quick stop at a fast food restaurant to pack a couple sandwiches for later in the day in case there wasn’t anything else for food readily available. Surprisingly, a couple of fast food chicken sandwiches remain fairly tasty after being stuffed in an already full backpack for 4-5 hours!

By this time my left knee had reached about the maximum pain of the entire trip, and I still had about 30 miles to go before a campground on the map just outside the very small town of Stafford. There were some route options to deviate off Highway 101 occasionally. However, the remainder of this day I chose to continue on the main highway as it seemed to have less hill climbing involved. This isn’t to say there weren’t still some large hills, but on the 101 they seemed to be more gradual. I really just wanted to get to a resting point for the night. Luckily, the miles seemed to go by quickly, and there was little traffic on the main highway. I stopped for a short moment and spoke with my brother, Jeff, who was kind enough to be shipping a new tire and tube to my planned stop at my cousin’s place in Oakland. Additionally, there were some very high bridge overpasses making for great scenery as my knee continuously screamed to stop and give it a break.

About an hour before sunset I finally came upon the exit for Stafford and made my way to Stafford RV Park nearby. The older gentleman working said I could have my choice of all the tent camping sites as there was no one else there yet. He also directed me to use the outlet outside one of the tiny cabins to charge my phone and battery back-up – both of which were completely depleted. The RV park had a few RVs although by no means was it full. It was a relief just to be stopped at a point where I could safely unpack a couple things, rest, shower, and recharge my phone/battery back-up. Not to mention, those 4 hour old chicken sandwiches tasted like food served from a Michelin-starred restaurant by that time. This was one of a number of days along the journey that was especially trying. There was still a long way to go, my knee was extremely bothered, and much of the day was spent chugging along in hazy conditions. Even though, there was much more for which to be grateful – the team at Revolution Bicycles, no flat tires, minimal traffic overall, food, warm shower, safe place to sleep with a sleeping pad, and a new day tomorrow with one of the absolute highlights of the entire tour, Avenue of the Giants.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 9

Day 9: Harris Beach State Park, Brookings, OR to Elk Prairie Redwood State Park, Orick, CA

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 67 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 771 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 2,900 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 27,700 feet

Startled by the sound of an uncomfortably nearby growl, I awoke only a couple hours into my slumber to find a curious raccoon investigating me and my campsite. The creature was apparently doing its nightly rounds for food, and it quickly scurried off after shining in the spotlight of my headlamp. The remainder of my last night in Oregon was spent yet again on the ground in my bivy making the best of my extra clothes being used as strategically placed pads near my hips and shoulders. Upon sunrise I slowly gathered my things during which time all the other cyclists departed ahead of me. One of the definite advantages of packing light and riding a racing bike is the flexibility to spend more time at your destination because you’re able to more easily cover miles while riding.

Prior to departing I was sure to stop and admire the scenic overlook of the ocean at Harris Beach State Park. It provides another stunning example of the beauty of Oregon’s Pacific coast. I couldn’t have been more thankful for the incredible stretch of riding and places to camp in Oregon. It really could not have been better and was the perfect way to begin the ride into California the same day. From that point after riding back through Brookings, Oregon it is only approximately 10 miles to the Oregon-California border. Following the departure from Brookings is a long stretch of very rural and scenic riding. Cycling across the checkpoint of the two bordering states brought a real feeling of excitement as I had only one more state until reaching my goal destination of Mexico. On the other hand, California is a very long state, and by this time my knee had become significantly more inflamed and painful at each pedal stroke.

Constant adjustments were necessary the remainder of the day in attempt to alleviate the knee pain I was experiencing. Even though, this did not seem to take away from the beauty and enjoyment of the ride. It did slow the pace. Luckily, this was planned to be a shorter distance day with plans to do some laundry in the first stop town of Crescent City, California. At the pace I was going, by the time I casually arrived in Crescent City I had ruled out any chance of laundry being done. Who really needs fresh clothes which only last for a day anyway?

Crescent City was a delightful stop for a couple reasons. One was that I hadn’t eaten more than a Clif bar for breakfast and there was a Denny’s restaurant with impeccable service who served a feast of pancakes, fruit, eggs, and coffee. Second, and even more importantly, there was a Big 5 sporting goods store a couple miles into town which had a few lightweight sleeping pads in stock! It was finally time for sleepless and uncomfortable nights to come to an end. Big 5 had the perfect compact ultra lightweight inflatable sleeping pad for an even better price. Splendidly proud I was to make such a purchase on the way to sleeping on cloud nine the remainder of the journey.

New sleeping pad packed, I was on my way out of Crescent City. Other than Crescent City and Brookings, the entirety of the day consisted of rural scenery along Highway 101. Some was near the coast and other times the route coursed inland through Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park. When the route turns more inland it came with an approximate 1,200 foot climb. At that time I came upon another touring cyclist chugging along. We exchanged smiles as I passed him as said hello. He was looking even more pleased than I. As it turned out we would be stopping at the same campground as we shared a meal later than night with a larger group!

After that large hill it was a relief to relax on the descent and enjoy a section of relatively flat ground passing by some of northern California’s celebrated redwood trees and even a large Paul Bunyan statue at an attraction called, Trees of Mystery, which also features a tram. Carefully and slowly riding along, I stopped at one of the few gas stations which happened to contain a great deli section serving outstanding sandwiches. Naturally, I ordered the largest possible to pack in my bag for an evening meal. A few more miles and the turn for the campground appeared – Newton B. Drury Scenic Parkway. It begins with one last smaller climb for the day along the 10 mile road. This is where I had my first taste of the ancient coastal redwoods through the heart of the old growth forest. The setting was absolutely spectacular, calm, peaceful, and serene. After reaching the peak of the last small climb the downhill cruise on the smooth surface tarmac was pure bliss all the way to the fantastic campground.

Elk Prairie Redwood State Park contains a wonderful campground which was rather busy on this night. There was a large group of cyclists riding with Bike MS which is a fundraising cycling series of the National MS Society and raises more money than any other cycling event for any other cause. After speaking with two of the ride leaders it seemed to be something in which I could easily participate in the future. They also inspired and sparked other ideas for fundraising efforts of my site, Blue Water Bicycles, supporting its mission.

After meeting the friendly Bike MS guys it was time to make my way to the hiker/biker campsite. Again, it seemed they made special efforts to tuck these sites into natural unaltered spaces within the campground. Upon claiming an unused picnic table I came across a group of six other tour cyclists. This turned out to be an inspiring group of 2 pairs of friends and 2 other solo riders who were on similar routes riding similar miles each day. They had accidentally met up and continued to meet up each night for the past week. I quickly showered, aired out some clothing, set out my bivy, and consumed my previously packed enormous deli sandwich. I then went for a walk in attempt to stretch my knee and muscles. During the walk near the entrance of the campground was a valley of prairie where there were numerous large elk grazing in the not too far distance. After enjoying their tranquility I returned to the group of fellow cyclists.  

This was a diverse group consisting of the one German man I had passed earlier in the day, an Irishman, 2 Swiss guys, and 2 American guys. This was one of many favorite nights of my tour. Each of them had interesting backgrounds and experiences on their trips. One of the Swiss guys had done nearly 15 other tours similar to this all around the world. They offered and insisted on giving me a beer, and they made a lot of extra food to share with me again. I didn't want to be rude and both tasted incredible. After many stories and tips were traded it quickly became dark and was time to get some sleep for the night. The first night sleeping on an air mattress had come, and I was nearly giddy with excitement! It easily inflated with a simple built-in manual pump, and it took less than a couple minutes to drift off to sweet dreamland.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 8

Day 8: Bullards Beach State Park, Bandon, OR to Harris Beach State Park, Brookings, OR

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 90 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 704 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 4,400 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 24,800 feet

Another night spent on the ground waking up before sunrise in a chill, yet this time it wasn’t nearly as cold as some of the other nights. It was a welcome feeling knowing that, however slow the progress, I had made it a significant distance south since departing Vancouver and crossing the Canadian/US border.

Once again, the Oregon State Park system did not disappoint as I was able to enjoy a hot shower after crawling to my feet and wandering in the dark to the heated shower shelter. Another pleasant surprise to start the day was a hand dryer! By this time all my gear had returned to a state of near saturation from a combination of sweat and condensation. It does take a little time in order to dry each individual article of clothing, but like I’ve said earlier, it’s well worth it for the reward of comfort the remainder of the day.

By this time about half of the cyclists in the completely full campsite were up and in the process of packing and getting on the road for the day. One man in his 70s had ridden his recumbent from his home in Seattle down to LA then to the Grand Canyon and finally was heading northward back home. He told me a few of his stories while I ate a banana and peanut butter sandwich. He described how much of the time he ended up camping in inconspicuous locations such as behind churches or on farmland. He had been met with nothing but kindness and not once did anyone have a problem with him staying on their land for a night. There was also a group of four French men who were riding south to San Francisco as a group. We both took time to admire each other’s bikes. Again, they were astonished at what little I had packed on my race bike while they rode heavy touring bikes with much more equipment. They left much earlier than I, but we later met again as I passed them down the road.

After all others who were awake had left and everything had been secured and packed in its proper location I departed. Outside the campground within the state park is Bullards Beach which is a calm area nestled in the bay near the town of Bandon. I then crossed the bridge on Highway 101 over the Coquille River which leads directly into Bandon. There I explored Old Town Bandon on the bay which has a number of shops, eateries, and a small marina. Then it was time for the ride to really start for the day. By this time the soreness in my knee seemed to have been increasing every morning only relenting after about 10 miles of gentle riding and warming up. This again seemed to do the trick as I pedaled on the 101 mostly passed a combination of farm and forest land about 17 miles to Langlois where I stopped for coffee at what appeared to be the only gas station in town. It was also the first place I saw in the small town. After departing I saw there were two other establishments, Floras Creek Coffee and Greasy Spoon Café, both of which appeared to be excellent and very busy. There’s always next time!

The very rural route continued for 13 more miles on roads in pretty good condition with minimal traffic until arriving in the town of Port Orford, Oregon. Port Orford appeared to be a somewhat larger town with nearby Port Orford Heads State Park and the historic Battle Rock. Here, I stopped for replenishment at a bakery and coffee shop, Tasty Kate’s, which had very colorful exterior as well as interior art all around. Best of all, they had enormous fresh cinnamon rolls and great coffee! Then, just before leaving town, is Battle Rock which is a beautiful site overlooking the beach with rock formations nearby in the water. The Battle Rock name comes from a historic battle between the Qua-to-mah Native Americans and Capt. William Tichenor’s men in 1851. Visitors are able to hike out on Battle Rock for even more of a view where whales are also known to be spotted.

After departing Port Orford, the welcome feeling of a gentle tailwind returned as did sunny skies and warm temperatures. These were the warm temperatures I had anticipated as the week prior to embarking on this journey there were record highs through much of my route. Along with the tailwind, sun, and warmth were more spectacular views and panoramas as Highway 101 closely followed the coast until reaching Humbug Mountain State Park where the route turned inland through the park riding with the shear edge of the mountain directly to right of the road. The route was tortuous for a short while. Luckily, there was little traffic during my pass through. What a grand site! From there it was another 23 miles of rolling hills and beauty passing through Nesika Beach before reaching Gold Beach, OR.

For anyone riding this route, Gold Beach is probably highlighted as it is well known that just after leaving Gold Beach there is a steep uphill climb of about 1000 feet. There was plenty of daylight left, and I was feeling reasonably well so I decided to press onward and upward. As experienced with many of the previous long climbs I was grateful to be carrying as little weight as possible and have a favorable gear setup on my ride. With this combination it was only a matter of time until reaching the top of the climb before enjoying the reward of coasting down at high speeds on the descent. On descents like this it is easy to reach high speeds for a bicycle and even as I took them calmly, speeds frequently rose to around 40 mph. There is a fine line of concentration required to maintain control while still trying to enjoy all the glorious scenery flying by!

By this time there were only about 20 miles left until reaching the Harris Beach State Park campground. Harris Beach State Park is situated directly on a cliff overlooking the Pacific just on the north edge of Brookings, OR. Consistent with the rest of Oregon this was another popular and clean campground with good facilities. I was one of the first few to arrive at the hiker/biker campsite. This was a nice change from previous nights as I could choose the best spot. The best spot happened to be directly in the middle with a place to lock up my bike and a large picnic table. Other than a place to sleep, the picnic table also functioned as a great spot to lay everything out to dry. This was definitely needed after 90 miles of riding in 90 degree heat. The miles were really starting to add up and my body felt each and every one at that point. In addition, the direct sun provided for some additional UV rays. My tan lines displayed obvious evidence that not enough sunscreen was used.

Since I hadn’t stocked up on groceries anywhere this day and only had a few nuts and an energy bar left, I was delighted to find the town of Brookings was only a couple miles away and had numerous restaurants. Mexican sounded especially good so I saddled back up on the bike for a ride to town. There was a great little restaurant which provided a delicious feast of chips, salsa, and a huge chimichanga. The best part was on the ride back to the campsite. The timing was absolutely perfect as I rode on a dedicated bike trail from town as the sun was setting. There was a man with a nice camera set up on a tripod overlooking the ocean. This was indeed the perfect spot to see it! Every sunset is spectacular in my mind. Although as the sun settled far beyond the horizon, this one appeared especially striking after many miles of warm temperatures, now a full belly, and the most beautiful scene overlooking the rock outcroppings scattered in the ocean.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 7

Day 7: Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park, Florence, OR to Bullards Beach State Park, Bandon, OR

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 88 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 614 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 4,000 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 20,400 feet

The first of what became many nights of sleeping on campground picnic tables was again a cold one sleeping intermittently until 2-3 am then remaining awake awaiting sunrise and the warmth of the sun. The benefit of sleeping atop a picnic table is that it gets you up and off the even colder ground. The obvious downside is that without any sort of sleeping pad, the planks of wood don’t exactly have the same feel of your premium Tempur-Pedic sleep system. Once the first sign of daylight appeared it was time to get moving and warm up. Again, I changed in the shower shelter house. Unfortunately, this one had no hand driers to help dry and warm everything. Nevertheless, there was much for which to be thankful. I had water, sourdough bread, cheese, peanuts, all my gear, a functioning bike, and remained injury free.

Karl arose from his tent while I was getting everything systematically repacked. We talked a bit more, and he had some good suggestions for future campsites as I progressed further south into California. He also said he had a blog about his rides and took a photo of me and my bike to be included in it. My bike setup was rarely seen for going such a distance, and he was shocked at how little gear I packed in comparison to him. After that it was time to start the ride for the day.

It started out on the same quiet and smooth road where yesterday’s ride had concluded, although there was a good amount of fog now hanging in the air. The fog and damp conditions made for a chilly start. As always after a few miles, the chill wore off as my body heat increased. Through the fog were some dramatic landscapes overlooking the Pacific as I passed the picturesque Haceta Head Lighthouse and Sea Lion Caves. A kind gentleman who was driving a Corvette and taking photos of the lighthouse was stopped at an outlook and offered to take my photo for me with the lighthouse in the background through the fog. With short and steep rolling hills the ride continued and as the sun rose higher the fog dissipated giving way to warmer temps.

The ride continued smoothly although I did have some development of knee soreness – likely from inflammation from constant overuse the past week on the road. Fortunately, the smooth roads continued through Florence and Dunes City. As I rode further south on this Tuesday morning the feel was more rural with very little traffic other than people commuting to work and logging trucks whizzing past. By this time the landscape had also shifted significantly from the dramatic overlooks to smoother rolling hills and sand dunes. I ended up stopping in the town of Reedsport for lunch after about 36 miles. Reedsport is slightly inland from the coast and is situated just on the southern banks of the Umpqua River. Directly to the west is Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area which is a great place well known for off-roading with nearby dune buggy and ATV rentals available. In Reedsport I stopped and ate at a great little diner/coffee shop, Ruthie’s, where they served a delicious pulled pork sandwich and had large homemade cookies. Of course, I was sure to buy two of the enormous cookies.

After returning to the saddle, the ride continued past many more sand dunes at times with sand even partially drifted onto the shoulder of the road. I pedaled on past William M. Tugman State Park and through the tiny towns of Tenmile, Saunders Lake, and Hauser. The next larger town along the route was North Bend. There is a grand old bridge entering North Bend. By this time the wind had really picked up, and it was almost a perfect crosswind. Like many older bridges this one had no sign of a bike lane which, in combination with the wind, provided for a precarious crossing. In this situation it’s best to ride as far right as possible, and ride as fast as possible to expedite the crossing. This is exactly what I did. It was one of the few times the entire trip I was honked at, and it was by a logging truck zooming past uncomfortably close. Perhaps the honk was meant to make me aware although the distinct sound of a logging truck needs no additional warning sound. After crossing the bridge I was ready to exit Highway 101 for a while. The suggested route proceeds west to Cape Arago Highway toward the small towns of Barview and Charleston where I stopped to restock on Clif bars, peanut butter, and another quart of chocolate milk to be chugged.

There were some locals checking out my bike, and I asked them about how far it was to my intended stop for the day at Bullards Beach State Park. They said it was only 10-15 miles although they also said the road was steep and “straight up”. Perfect way to end the day J Also fitting was the name of the road, Seven Devils Road. Sure enough, it was very steep and winding. It is a narrow and meandering road through thick forests. Once near the top of the climb there are some gorgeous scenic overlooks below, and it had very little traffic. Shortly after beginning the descent back down, I saw a large creature running from the edge of the forest toward the road. I slowed slightly, and it continued running all the way across the road in plain sight. It was a big black bear just galloping across! What a treat to see! It was also at a good distance at about 30 yards away which was close enough to get a great look and far enough away for comfort.

The road continued winding all the way down and eventually back to the Oregon Coast Highway just prior to reaching Bullards Beach State Park. Here was another outstanding state park and a popular one at that. It seemed nearly at capacity with the hiker/biker site almost full as well. I had arrived at a good time to claim a spot to sleep on a nice patch of grass, and there were fire rings in this site. The campground attendant said it was the last night before a burn ban went into effect so naturally I made sure to go and purchase some wood for a fire later. This proved to be a popular choice later in the evening after the sun and temperatures both dropped. A sourdough, banana, and peanut butter sandwich was on the menu for dinner as the numerous fellow bikers shared their stories of where they had traveled and what they had encountered. With the warmth of the fire, good company, and a crystal clear night to view the spectacular stars, it was the conclusion to yet another great day on the Pacific Coast.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 6

Day 6: Cape Lookout State Park, Tillamook, OR to Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park, Florence, OR

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 101 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 526 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 4,500 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 16,400 feet

Day 6 began around 6 am after a cold night with intermittent sleep on the mossy forest ground with towering trees above. I had learned long ago that the best thing to do when you’re cold is to quickly get moving to increase blood flow. So I packed a few things in preparation for the day, grabbed the layers to be worn for the day, and started quickly moving toward the showers. Yesterday, I had taken note that there were hand dryers in the shower shelters and thought they would be the perfect tool to dry my gear and warm up at the same time. It does take some time to dry all your gear with a hand dryer but it works quite well – socks, shirts, shorts, shoes, everything! Then once everything is dry the shelter makes a nice place to don all the freshly warm and dry gear to start the day. As mentioned in a previous post, comfort is paramount on days like these.

After getting all warmed up it was time to repack all my gear which was quickly becoming a systematic ritual. Everything had its specific location, direction, and style of being packed in order to properly distribute weight and make for the best ride. Another important detail I came to appreciate was the amount of water I needed to refill for the day. My Camelbak backpack held 3 liters of water. However, I found that if I filled it completely full it became significantly more uncomfortable for a long ride, and I rarely needed that much water. Fortunately, there were usually places I could easily refill if needed so filling the container about half-way seemed to be best. While packing everything it was also important to get some calories. I had no stove like most people on this type of a trip so I counted on things like nuts of all kinds, Clif bars, salted nut rolls, bread, and peanut butter for sustenance.

All the preparation and calories from the peanuts came in handy very early in the day as there was a serious 1000 foot climb immediately upon starting. The climb coursed slightly inland through more dense forest then through a small town named Sandlake before returning to the coast on a downhill trend. About 16 miles into the ride was the small town of Pacific City. By this time a supreme hunger had set in, and it was time for breakfast. In Pacific City there is a wonderful small coffee and breakfast place, Village Coffee Shoppe. It has a limited number of tables, and it is well known for a great breakfast and coffee. I had what was becoming a standard breakfast of 3 pancakes, 2 eggs, hash browns, and coffee.

With a full belly it was time to forge onward. The route again turned inland for a portion then back toward the coast near Neskowin. Then there were more beautiful forests. Eventually the Oregon Coast Highway returned to the beach in Lincoln City which was about 22 miles after Pacific City. This was a great location for a break, and it was also one of the few beaches I encountered which allowed vehicles to drive right out on the beach! By this time it was a bright and sunny day with warming temperatures, a welcome feeling. The soreness in my legs had also lessened after being thoroughly warmed up. I also noticed the breeze had turned to come from a northwesterly direction which was a most glorious tailwind for riding south along the coast. This combination made for an exceptionally wonderful day of cycling as this stretch was some of the most beautiful of the entire trip. I continued on in glee soaking up the stunning vistas rolling through Depoe Bay and Otter Rock for about 25 miles until stopping in Newport at a great local bike shop called Bike Newport. This bike shop is well known for its knowledgeable and friendly staff. Here, I aired up my tires and spoke with the gentlemen working. They provided very helpful information about possible places to stay for the night and suggested stocking up on groceries before leaving town as there were few other places to do so for the day. Not one to go hungry, I heeded their advice and made a stop at the JC Market Thriftway. The goods of this stop included a quart of chocolate milk, a loaf of sourdough bread, a pound of sliced turkey, a half-pound of Colby jack cheese, and roasted chick peas. The chocolate milk was briskly chugged outside the grocery store while I packed the bread, meat, and cheese hastily into and upon my gear with the loaf of sourdough prominently strapped to the top of my saddle pack.

Upon departing Newport the most heavenly spin continued as I felt wonderful, had a gentle tailwind, rolling hills, smooth wide shoulders, and some of the very best views of the entire tour. There were multiple small towns along the way and a few intermittent stops to take time to enjoy the views and snap a couple quick photos. The town of Yachats was especially intriguing and stood out as a place to return in the future. It is a town situated directly overlooking the coast with a friendly feel containing interesting parks, trails, cafes, coffee shops, bakeries, and inns. By the time I stopped and enjoyed the sights of Yachats for a few minutes the day was growing old, and it was only about 12 miles to my tentatively planned stop for the night at Carl G Washburne Memorial State Park. The way the day had gone I could have ridden onward in bliss indefinitely. Grateful for such a perfect day of riding the only thing I could do to pay homage was savor each second. In what seemed like an instant on a quiet stretch of Oregon Highway 101 a sign for Carl G Washburne State Park appeared out of nowhere. On the western side of the road is a day-use park where I stopped and climbed on a picnic table to get a glimpse of the ocean peaking over the shrubbery. On the other side of the road is the campground. Again, the Oregon park system proved to be top notch.

The campground was quiet and probably half full on this Monday night surrounded by trees with the hiker/biker area on the top of a hill still enshrouded in greenery. There were only three other people at this site – a mother and son cycling a portion of the Oregon coast and Karl, who had started biking from his home in LA and was heading toward a friend’s place which was scheduled to be a prime location for viewing the upcoming total solar eclipse. Karl and I conversed for some time. He was a retired electrician from Long Beach and an experienced bike tourist who had done multiple trips along the Pacific coast as well as a trip across Vietnam. He had hosted many cyclists at his place in Long Beach on their journeys along the coast and offered the same for me provided he was back in town in time.

The sun quickly lowered in the sky. This triggered the sequence of showering, setting up a place to stay, and preparing some food. All of these activities were tasks that during routine life would likely be menial. However, during this trip at the end of the day they became absolute joys. It made no difference that the shower was down the hill in a chilly shelter, that I was going to be cold sleeping on a picnic table with no pad, or that I would be eating a hastily made cold sandwich. After 100+ miles of sheer beauty and awe in a single day, these were icing on the cake.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 5

Day 5: Astoria, OR to Cape Lookout State Park, Tillamook, OR

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 77 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 425 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 2,700 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 11,900 feet

The Norblad Hostel provided for another dry and warm night, and by this time I almost started to feel somewhat normal other than the most sore leg muscles I have ever experienced. Previously, I had always considered myself somewhat of a multi-sport athlete growing up playing football, basketball, and running distance events in track. Recent training had consisted of riding in a few days of the great annual bike ride across Iowa (RAGBRAI) as well as training I had put in while living in Colorado prior to commencing this trip. I thought this would allow for me to handle this trip with ease. Wow, was I wrong! After riding significant mileage for 4 days straight while carrying all the required gear, the soreness in my legs had set in making it impossible to walk even close to what would be considered "normal". Nevertheless, it was thrilling to already have made it to Oregon with some of the best cycling and experiences yet to come.

Sore legs and all, morning came quickly. The pattern of waking up hungry and ready for a feast continued. Fortunately, there were numerous nearby cafes, bakeries, and coffee shops in Astoria. All of them were tempting. After riding around a few blocks I rode upon the Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café. Their website states they focus on: Strong Community, Organic Food, and Joyful Work. This becomes apparent upon stepping inside and enjoying their ambiance while sipping the delicious coffee and tasting something off their menu of delectable pastries and breakfast dishes. Full of fuel with bright blue and sunny skies it was time to continue south. Having been told by Jim of the greatness of Cape Lookout State Park it seemed like a good goal for the day being close to 80 miles away and situated directly next to a beach.

Riding back through Astoria was again a delight taking in all of the sights of the grand Columbia River. Then I found myself back on Highway 101 except now I was riding over Youngs Bay on Oregon Coast Highway. Right away it became noticeable the difference between riding in Oregon compared to Washington. The two most obvious differences were more bicycle friendly drivers and much better bike lanes with consistently wider shoulders on major roadways. The combination made for one of the most pleasant days of riding thus far. To top it off, today was the day I would be riding through Cannon Beach – a place I had highly anticipated paying a visit!

Riding south through the small towns of Sunset Beach, Gearhart, and Seaside was a great start to the day’s ride. Then the ride continued over relatively flat green and lush land for about 25 miles until exiting Highway 101 for the first stop of the day, Cannon Beach! I had anticipated this stop for some time and was not disappointed in the slightest. Cannon Beach is famous for its picturesque Haystack Rock, and it has the feel of a charming beach town. Riding through on a Sunday there were plenty of people out enjoying the sunny day eating brunch, shopping at local stores, and going to the vast and beautiful beach. Being a beach lover myself I couldn’t help but park and lock up my ride to soak up some sun and sand too. In the setting of the massive rock outcropping in the water named Haystack Rock, Cannon Beach has a supernatural feeling to it with plenty of room for all to enjoy. Walking across the sand in bare feet with my pack on my back I couldn’t help but smile being grateful to be able to do what I love all wrapped in one day along this classic journey.

After plenty of photos, joy, and a skype call to my mom it was time to keep moving south with a lot of miles yet to be pedaled. More of the same good roads continued along the coast through Arch Cape then the route turned somewhat inland past Manzanita and through Nehalem. The 101 then returns to the coast past Nedonna Beach to Rockaway Beach where I had a nice break and snack in the sun on a bench overlooking the beach. A pleasant family took a photo of me and it was time to cruise the last 25 miles of the day. The next town was Garibaldi on the north end of Tillamook Bay. Then the course is on the east side of Tillamook Bay until coming to Tillamook, OR which is famous for its cheese. By this time my legs were again feeling all of the miles in each pedal stroke. The last portion of the ride continued to be pleasant as I turned west onto Highway 131 riding by farmland then more lush green forests toward Netarts Bay and finally Cape Lookout State Park. By this time the temps were dropping a bit and the campground was a definite welcome site.

Cape Lookout State Park is a beautifully maintained park with an equally impressive campground with full amenities for all campers ranging from large deluxe RVs to hikers and bikers like me. A quick ride through the park and I easily found the designated hiker/biker campsite which was set in a grove of tall green trees with the beach off in the distance. It was spectacular with numerous campsites with picnic tables dispersed among the dense forest. I was told by Jim about the hiker/biker campsites of Oregon and how great they are. Now, I could see why. They are a great resource with the beauty of nature all around, fellow kind campers, free hot showers, and all of it costing only 5-6 US dollars! After finding a good campsite I met two brothers, John and Jim, who were cycling the Oregon coast together, and they informed me how to pay and where the showers were located.

The state park camp host was most pleasant, and the free hot shower was wonderful. It was a short trek through the woods between the campsite and the showers which was equally therapeutic for my sore legs and aching feet. After hanging gear up or laying it out on the picnic table in attempt to dry I had a good time visiting with the brothers, and other fellow cyclists, Serena and Pat, who congregated at the brother’s picnic table to eat, share stories, and food. Before long it was pitch dark outside and all that could be heard was a gentle breeze through the trees and the ocean waves crashing in the distance. It was time for another chilly night attempting to sleep in my thin bivy on the ground. The mossy forest ground gave me some hope of getting some rest. Even if I didn’t sleep a wink I was happy with the magnificent day and the most extraordinary accommodations for a night.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 4

Day 4: Aberdeen, WA to Astoria, OR

 

Approximate daily mileage ~ 77 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 348 miles

Approximate daily elevation gain ~ 2600 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 9200 feet

After the deepest and most sound sleep of my life the alarm sounded at 6:27 AM. In attempt at being a gracious Couchsurfing guest I was on the road shortly after saying goodbye to everyone who was also up at that time on a Saturday morning. Breakfast consisted of a king size salted nut roll – one of my favorite convenience store sources of calories other than Clif bars. The morning started with dry gear (not clean, but dry) for the first time since leaving Vancouver. As the trip continued I gained more and more appreciation for little things like dry gear and comfortable places to sleep.

The dry gear didn’t last long as there was heavy fog and sprinkling rain that quickly saturated everything. Despite the rain I was feeling fantastic with very little traffic and well recuperated legs. The first 15 miles went by in almost an instant. I encountered one other cyclist also riding a road bike sporting a backpack similar to my set-up. This was uncommon as most people riding long distances have a significantly different bike set-up specifically for touring and hauling the usual required gear in panniers. (More on the bike set up in a later post) I said “hello” as I passed and we exchanged a smile and a head nod. Less than 10 miles later while pedaling up a hill it suddenly became much more difficult. After a glance at my rear tire it was clear I had my first flat. After stopping near the top of the hill for some investigation there was an obvious laceration in the tire. After a few minutes the man I previously passed came up and stopped to ask if I was okay. He saw what was going on and insisted I must replace the tube. We talked some more and he said he was riding from Alaska to Panama! He said that it was his 21st day on the road. This was incredible and provided inspiration for the remainder of the trip. He said his name was Gou and he snapped a photo of me before taking off and saying, “Catch me…you ride much faster!” The truth was I wasn’t riding anywhere until this tube was fixed.

Now, before starting the trip I had put Stans sealant in the tubes in hopes of stopping any such punctures and a lot of the sealant had sprayed out in the process of the flat. Stans is great stuff for helping these situations, and I had faith in it. So I used one of my few CO2 cartridges to re-inflate the tire hoping there was enough sealant to fill in the defect. Sure enough, the cartridge filled it and it seemed to hold pressure. It was a large gash toward the sidewall of the tire so for some added reassurance I used super glue and gorilla tape to try to reinforce the gash. After some delay I was back on the wet road. The next town about 5-10 miles down was called Raymond where I stopped at a McDonald’s for a couple quick breakfast sandwiches, coffee, and to warm up. Thorough inspection of the tire showed it was holding air and by this time the rain seemed to stop with moderate temps in the 50s and clouds remaining.

The road conditions were very nice with wide shoulders continuing down the hilly and numerous twists of highway 101 through the tiny towns of South Bend and Nemah. Similarly good road conditions were to present down highway 401, Lewis and Clark Trail Highway, through the towns of Naselle and Knappton. About this time the wide Columbia River came into sight and there were breaks in the clouds revealing some of the blue sky behind – a glorious sight. The next great sight in the far distance was another visual masterpiece, the Astoria – Megler Bridge. Being the longest continuous steel truss bridge in North America crossing from Washington into Oregon it is truly spectacular. I had previously heard from Jim that crossing the bridge by bike is a rather terrifying experience. Naturally, I was intrigued why he described it this way. So I snapped a few photos and began the long trip across the 4.067 mile long bridge. I quickly found out why Jim had described it the way he had. There is no bike lane, a decent incline, and absolutely no shoulder with heavy vehicle traffic and high winds. At the same time there were large birds of prey, blue skies, and sunshine guiding across the entire way making it a highlight of the day and of the whole journey.

Arrival in Astoria, Oregon was a great relief as there was a nice bike shop, Bikes & Beyond, in town where I could replace the tube and reinforce the laceration in the tire with some gorilla tape on the inside wall. At the bike shop I met a guy with a decked out electric bike also traveling from Vancouver to the south with his final destination in LA. An electric bike didn’t sound like a bad idea after another decent chunk of miles and a knee that had become pretty painful and inflamed. In addition to the much needed rest, Astoria is a really fun small city with a great atmosphere. There is much to be explored from the boardwalk along the Columbia River with a trolley running up and down to restaurants and breweries. It’s even home to the movie, “The Goonies”. Luckily, I was able to get a place to stay at the Norblad Hotel which has limited hostel rooms available. The Norblad Hotel would come recommended as it has nice and clean accommodations in a great location. Arrival into town at a decent time also allowed for a sit down meal of local Chinese food at Golden Star as suggested by the bike shop owner and some live music at the Fort George Brewery across the street from the hostel. Welcome to Oregon.

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 3

Day 3: South Beach Campground, Olympic National Park, WA to Aberdeen, WA

 

Approximate mileage ~ 76 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 271 miles

Approximate elevation gain ~ 1900 feet

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 6600 feet

Last night I was continuously reminded how I chose to save weight and space by not packing a sleeping pad or sleeping bag. It was a really beautiful setting with the surrounding thick forest, ocean beyond the cliff and light mist and fog hovering above. Although the cool temps combine with mist and solid ground didn’t allow for any more sleep than the previous night. So I woke up around 5 am and walked around a bit in attempt to warm up. I was never so appreciative to use an outhouse as it provided a slight amount of shelter from the mist and breeze to help with the warming efforts. Jim, who we had met the previous night, stopped by around 7 wearing little more than shorts, raincoat, and helmet. This guy had undoubtedly done this before. Joel fixed a flat in his tire the previous night but for whatever reason the tire was flat again in the morning. I hung around, still attempting to regain feeling in my feet, while he fixed his flat for the second time. By this time I was ready to get on the road and keep heading south.

It was consistently raining very lightly the whole morning. Everything I was wearing as well as carrying in my pack was thoroughly saturated by a short while down the road. Once exiting the roads of Olympic National Park continuing on highway 101 once again there were numerous logging trucks whizzing by at great speeds. This stretch contained a very few very small towns and numerous dense forests. Clear cutting of large sections of forest was a frequent sight as well. It was obvious that logging is one of the few main industries inland on this section of the 101.

By this time on the trip my appetite was in full swing. There was simply no way to be able to eat enough and still have enough time to cover the miles I had intended in addition to finding a place to sleep each night. Luckily, Joel had mentioned a little café with free wifi which seemed like the perfect place to refuel and just as importantly recharge my phone and extra battery pack – both of which had been depleted. After about 30 miles I spotted the café! It was called the Quinault Internet Café. It was warm, dry, had free wifi, and a great breakfast menu from which I selected a feast of 3 pancakes, 2 eggs, 2 strips of bacon, and one huge cinnamon roll. Perfection! This massive quantity of calories came in handy over the next approximately 40 miles to the next stop at a town called Hoquiam.

There happened to be a small bike shop in Hoquiam and it was still open. It turned out to be a bit longer of a stop than intended. Even though, the owner and coworker were very nice and aired up a low tire for me. Hoquiam is a town just west of Aberdeen, WA. Once again, there was no solid plan for a place to stay for the night. I did have an idea from Joel about a campground just south of Aberdeen which would be a good place to stay. I also reached out to one family on Couchsurfing in attempt to find a place warm and dry for the night as the previous two nights had been the exact opposite. While riding around Aberdeen in search of a restaurant and grocery store I received a message back from the family whom I contacted on Couchsurfing. They were willing to host for the night! At this time that was some of the greatest news I could’ve received. So I found a subway for a quick sandwich and restocked on nuts and energy bars at a nearby grocery store then headed to my host’s home.

Up to this point there had been some gentle hills for the day but nothing extreme. This changed abruptly as I made a very steep climb up several blocks to my host’s home in a very nice neighborhood. Upon arrival, I was greeted by Lorena then later her husband Matthew and their four children. They were all incredibly wonderful people and I still cannot express how thankful I am for them allowing me to stay on such short notice. I had a nice warm shower for the first time in 3 days then we watched a little bit of Netflix. We conversed and they shared information about their work and the surrounding area – all very interesting. Around 9 pm everyone left me to the couch and I slept more deeply than any other sleep, ever. Once again, Thank You Lorena and Matthew!!!

Pacific Coast Tour: Day 2

Day 2: 10 miles outside Port Angeles, WA to South Beach Campground, Olympic National Park, WA

 

Approximate mileage ~ 90 miles

Approximate total mileage ~ 195 miles

Approximate elevation gain ~ 3200 feet  

Approximate total elevation gain ~ 4700 feet

The start of day 2 was a stark contrast from day 1 as it really felt more like a continuation of day 1 with 2-3 hours of sleep at the very most. As the daylight finally came around 5:30 am I was more than ready to get back on the bike and keep riding – if nothing else to allow myself to thaw and regain feeling in my hands and feet. As I shimmied out of the bivy and rose to my feet I was surprised to see that I had been rolling around all night directly beside a large patch of poison ivy! Luckily I’ve never had a significant reaction to poison ivy in the past and again escaped with only a few minor locations of irritation on my legs. Before heading back out on the road I quickly packed the bags on my bike and backpack. On days like this it was very easy to fit everything in the limited bags as I was wearing nearly all the layers of clothes I brought in order to stay warm.

Getting back on the road I was primarily using Google maps at this time as this is not the route suggested in most of the guide books or the ACA maps. This route continued on the small highway on which I left Port Angeles and then it led to continue west on the Strait of Juan de Fuca Highway (112) going through the tiny towns of Ramapo and Joyce. I stopped at a gas station near Joyce for breakfast and snacks for later (Clif bars, Powerade, chocolate milk). Here I inquired about the options of continuing on west toward Pysht versus taking a small road and the Olympic Discovery Trail south toward Crescent Lake in the northern part of Olympic National Park to then continue on highway 101. The locals were unsure if the trail had been reopened after recent repairs. Additionally, they recommended staying off highway 112 at all costs due to really high numbers of logging trucks and narrow shoulders. Placing far too much faith in Google maps’ relatively new bicycle guidance feature I decided to head south toward Crescent Lake on the Olympic Discovery Trail.

This began as a very enjoyable moderate climb up a small and fairly well maintained road which led to the descent back down. There was construction part way down the descent as I was stopped by the road worker. She too was unclear whether the trail I needed was reopened. She said she had been on it about a year ago and described it as an easy mountain bike trail. I was committed at this point and continued on after given the all clear. Eventually, after twisting and turning down the steep descent I came upon what appeared to be the trail I needed. Initially, it consisted of a steep climb on freshly laid large uneven gravel. Again, I was far too committed to turn back at this point. This terrain would be no problem for a well equipped mountain bike. However, my gear was set up strictly for riding on well maintained pavement. Continuing on very slowly and carefully to avoid tire punctures or flats the rough gravel later gave way to a single track mountain bike trail. This made for very slow going for around 4-5 miles. The trail runs along the north edge of Crescent Lake and at times the tire of my bike was inches away from plummeting 30 feet straight down into the clear and surely frigid water. The views this provided were enchanting due to the combination of clear calm water surrounded by tall green forest all encased in haze from fog and smoke from nearby forest fires.

After being extremely careful for the past 4-5 miles to avoid tire problems or any unintended bath in the lake I was absolutely delighted to be greeted with what appeared to be a very freshly laid asphalt bike path in pristine condition. This was such a welcome sight at that time I thought it more likely to be a mirage than real life. The next six miles were absolutely blissful seeing only one other cyclist the entire time and even being welcomed by a hummingbird with continued natural beauty all around. The perfect trail quickly ended at a trailhead and it was time to continue onto Highway 101 – a highway I became very familiar with over the coming weeks.

The next stretch of Highway 101 continues for a good number of miles before coming to the next town named Forks. There was one cafe called “Hungry Bear Café” which I had spotted previously on Google maps and looked to the perfect stop for a large breakfast themed meal. The Hungry Bear Café appeared after many miles of numerous large logging trucks zooming by only a couple feet away. By this time my hunger had reached a peak level. Upon arriving I was greeted by a worker saying that the café would be closed for the next few hours due to the fryer being cleaned with nothing else for sale during that time. Quite disappointed I went back outside and searched for some sustenance, a Clif Builder bar. While enjoying the last of my food supplies onboard a family with a camper trailer stopped and had the same idea as me. Outside the café I let them know the response I received but welcomed their efforts to buy some food. They quickly returned outside with a similar disappointment. They then returned to their camper. A few minutes later one of their sweet daughters came back out from their camper with a bag of Doritos she was offering me and she also insisted I come have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with the rest of their family. How could I turn her down? I then met this wonderfully pleasant family, ate PB & J sandwiches and traded stories. Chad was the father/husband and he is a Canadian citizen. Interestingly, he also served in the US military so he had dual citizenship! They were going to Olympic National Park to visit some of the hot springs. After a short and greatly appreciated visit along with numerous curious questions from the children I thanked them for such kindness and generosity and continued along the 101.

The next stop was a town named Forks. This came after many more miles of speeding logging trucks, hills, some shoulder, some lack of shoulder, cloudy skies, and great scenery all the way. Forks is a small town and like many small towns appeared to have some a few well known small town restaurants. I stopped at one and had a great pulled pork sandwich with sides for an even better price. After departing Forks it is another 27 miles to Ruby Beach which is located in a strip of Olympic National Park situated along the coast of Washington. The ocean was a very welcome site after a long day! Here, at my first site along the Pacific Coast there were a group of grey whales swimming off the shore. Truly a magical sight like out of a dream. Suddenly, I was brought back to reality by a bee stinging my calf. Luckily, I’m not allergic. It was getting later in the day by this point and I needed to find a place to sleep. I saw that within the next ten miles there were two campgrounds and one lodge. The first campground was Ruby Beach which had a sign that said it was full. I then stopped at the Kalaloch Lodge which was also full for the night. They did have drinking water so I made sure to replenish my supplies and warm up a bit in the cozy entry. I then went on to the last option – South Beach Campground which also appeared to be full judging by the sign. I proceeded onward hoping to find otherwise. Indeed the campground did appear quite full. It was a really cool site being perched upon a cliff overlooking the ocean with walkways to the beach below. By this time it was quite chilly, misting, and foggy. There happened to be a touring bicycle leaning upon a picnic table with a tent set up nearby. No one appeared to be present. Hoping someone would show up I took a seat at the picnic a table and waited a while. Soon enough another cyclist approached me also looking to find a place to stay. His name was Joel, a fun guy from Canada who was nearing the end of his trip back to his home in Vancouver. About ½ hour passed before Jim showed up – the rightful owner of the campsite for the night. He too was very kind and extremely knowledgeable about cycle touring. He shared maps, tips, and stories as well as the offer to share his campsite. He also suggested trying to stay in the “day use” area perched above the rest of the campground. Technically no camping was allowed there. However, Jim and even the campground attendant predicted no problems for Joel and I to camp up there for a night. After eating and admiring the view from the campground, Joel and I ventured up to the day use area and set up our camps – his tent and my bivy. This area had an even more spectacular vantage point and plush green grass which was key for me being able to get any sleep whatsoever without any sort of sleeping pad. It turned out to be another wet and cold night giving way to very little sleep. It became evident very quickly that a sleeping pad at the very least and preferably a tent and sleeping bag would be helpful for getting better sleep.

After this long and eventful day two things lingered in my mind. One is the kindness of the family who shared their lunch with me out of their camper. The second is there is no doubt Olympic National Park is a very special place to which I would highly recommend a visit.